Sunday, December 26, 2010

Item Number 44

There was once a dream to spend time in the water surfing on Christmas day. This dream was mine, and on Christmas day 2010 I made a dream a reality. As much as I would like to make it sound as though the Christmas session wielded many joyous presents for all to enjoy, sometimes you have to take what you get. You know, beggars can’t be choosers. Nonetheless, I awoke on Christmas day with joy in my heart, knowing that I would get to paddle out again and try to catch a few waves. After a little breakfast with the family and opening up the stockings, it was time to pack up the gear and head out to the surf.



Upon arriving at beach, I hopped out of the truck the check the surf. As soon as I stepped out the door, the cold December wind stung my face and reminded me of the harsh reality that is winter surfing in Ventura. Searching the break along the coastline of Faria Beach I found my spot and began to get everything together. With suit on and board waxed I paddled out into the cool waters of the Pacific Ocean for my first taste of Christmas day surfing. About an hour, and a few waves, later I decided it was about as good as I was going to get. At the end of the day the surf provided very few gifts of which to the speak of, but the dream was not about finding the best surf on Christmas day, it was about getting my head wet. Though not the most successful day of surfing that I have ever had, the point of the day was found and enjoyed.

Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night....